Showing posts with label Playa Larga. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Playa Larga. Show all posts

Saturday, 21 November 2015

Cuba - Playa Larga - Part 2

My second day in Playa Larga was rather different. Not really up for spending another $15 plus car hire to see more stray flamingos (though I was told that there would be more in the morning, it was still not going to be 10,000), I decided to take the hop-on hop-off Guamá tour bus ($3) up to Boca de Guamá in the morning then to Playa Girón in the afternoon. The bus runs two return trips daily and it turned out that it would only wait at Boca de Guamá for 30 minutes which is nowhere near enough time to even work out what was going on, so I had to forgo Playa Girón in the end.

After being told the bus arrives between 9 to 10 (yes it had that much margin of error) I diligently arrived just before 9 to wait for its arrival. Then I bumped into my casa host who said in Spanish what I understood as, the bus comes at 9.30. Luckily I decided to then go and get a local breakfast, because the next woman I asked said the bus would come at 10.30 (with 25 minutes to spare I took the opportunity to go back to my casa for some important business). Eventually the bus came at 10.50. The wait, 1hr50; the ride, 10 minutes.


I found the tourist information desk as soon as I got off the tour bus and the lady who clearly didn't like her job (or me, or both) said that there were two things to do: go to the crocodile farm ($5) and take a speedboat to the lake and see an "Indian village" ($12, takes about an hour). The second bus wouldn't return until 3pm to pick me up so I decided to do both. I soon realised going to this place was a complete mistake - coaches full of rich OAPs (either Germans or Americans) were shipped here to do these excursions, and the tourism at this place was entirely designed for such purpose. 




(I'll add a great close up shot of the crocs when I have them off my camera)

The crocodile farm was actually alright. The thing I snarled at the most was how these croc-keepers had tied the mouths of a baby croc so he could keep it on a leash and put a hat on its head to take photos with the joyous tourists. Humans trying to exercise control again. Otherwise there were loads of big fuck off crocs in a big-ish pond sadly all hanging around the same spot where tourists can pay a further $1 to feed them some gone off nondescript meat over the fence via a fishing line. I was lucky enough to capture a small ruffle between two crocs as they exited the water at the same time. There was also a viewing platform that you could walk up to which hangs over the edge of the pond, with a couple of dozen of hungry mouths 5-6m below. Dropping your camera or falling in trying to catch it certainly were certainly not on the itinerary.




The "Indian village" was far more disappointing. The best bit was the speed boat ride. The "village" was basically a collection of huts built on water, using wood, straws and coconut leaves as the roof. No one actually lived in these huts - they were merely gift shops/bars/restaurants for tourists. 




One thing that I was really confused about was what the $12 ticket included. I assumed it included a guide that accompanied the boat, but it appeared that the guide on my boat was only showing this Swiss German couple around - not me or the six rowdy American kids. I followed the German couple and the guide for a little while, then walked on by myself. When I returned the original boat had already gone. I waited for other boats and was told that I should only go back in my original boat (which would not be coming back). And I thought it was hop on whichever one was available? Clearly not.


I had a headache all day which did not subside even into the evening for some reason. As I was making my way out to find a restaurant the thunderstorm started and didn't stop for 2-3 hours. There was a lot of rain on my way out which eased off on my way home after dinner. Luckily I had my umbrella which unluckily doubled up as a lightning rod, which was especially worrying when I was walking in the open and the lightning was getting closer (the thunder followed fairly soon after the lightning), more frequent (flashes every 5 seconds or so) and more intense (every flash torched the sky and was brighter than the street lights). It was quite spectacular nonetheless.

Sunday, 15 November 2015

Cuba - Playa Larga - Part 1

Practicalities

Despite the significance the Lonely Planet placed on the Zapata region, it was a shame not to see a more detailed map of the local villages in the guidebook. I've tried to point out a few bits of info which I hope would be useful to others. Sorry about the quality of the maps - I can only do screenshots on my phone at the moment.







  1. Viazul / Guamá tour bus stop
  2. Casa Nina - 0145-45987479
  3. Zapata permit office (get there way before 8.30)
  4. Breakfast - egg muffin and 1L of soy yogurt for 5 pesos
  5. Cadeca (money exchange)
  6. Drinks kiosk with ice cream vendor next door
  7. Fresh home made yogurt stall and pizza stall
  8. Restaurants
  9. Octopus diving centre

Etecsa - right next to the communications tower. You can't miss it. Only 1 PC, no WiFi


The story

My original plan of going straight from Havana to Playa Larga went out of the window when I found out at the Havana Viazul bus station that the only bus had already left at 7am when I turned up at 8.30, so I had to backtrack slightly having gone to Cienfuegos first. The bus was from Cienfuegos was destined for Varadero and took about 2.5 hours. I couldn't reserve and the bus was full so it was either stand or wait another day. It was now or never.


Playa Larga is a small village conveniently situated between Cuba's largest national park / swamp - Ciénaga de la Zapata - and a number of scuba diving / snorkelling sites in the Bay of Pigs (there is more history to see 35km further south in Playa Girón but I didn't think a room of glorified artefacts was worth the trek).




I spent the first afternoon riding a rented bike into the swamps (Las Salinas) with a Swiss couple and their Taiwanese travel buddy after meeting them at the village drinks kiosk. The path along Las Salinas was long and straight. The ride seemed never ending and it was a constant dilemma between avoiding the intense heat of the sun or the intense  aggravation of the mosquitoes. Luckily they don't have malaria or dengue fever here (so the guide claimed anyway).




We saw local crabs (they were very hard to spot), termite mounds (some were massive - the size of my day rucksack), and pink flamingos (supposedly the highlight). Sadly there were only about 30 flamingos that we saw - not quite the 10,000 according to the Lonely Planet. I wouldn't even call it a flock. Maybe "a few stray ones" is more fitting. As for other smaller birds, either my eyesight was too bad to spot them, or I was too preoccupied with not being bitten by the relentless insects that I missed everything in my path - or both.


(To insert photo of flamingos when downloaded from big camera)


We didn't make it to the end of the long path before we decided it was going to take a while to ride back and it would get dark. We did manage to get back just as the sun was setting. We stopped off at the other guys' casa first where I also returned the rented bike - the guy was even so kind as to offer me a ride in his rickshaw back to my casa, all as part of the $5 he made from my 3.5 hours of bike rental. It was the worst rickshaw ride in my whole life (the walk back wouldn't have been much better). It wasn't his driving; I was bitten no fewer than 40 times all over the uncovered parts of my body in the space of 20 minutes. This included my little toe (had I known I was going to ride for 33km and get bitten so much I wouldn't have worn shorts and flip flops), face and lower lip. Despite the bites, my spirits were high and I was pleased with meeting people I could spend more than 2 minutes with and actually call friends. 




The advantage of staying in a village pretty much in the middle of nowhere (no internet aside) was that stars were actually visible, despite a little light pollution from the street lights. After debating whether to go out to take some night shots on that night or the following night I decided it was another now or never (which indeed turned out to be the case as there was a thunderstorm on the second night).

TBC...