My first full day in Trinidad was spent at the local beach, Playa Ancón. The helpful assistant at Infortur (along Gustavo Izquierdo) told me that buses run from the corner of Antonio Maceo and Zerquera, departing at 9am and 11am ($2 roundtrip). There were probably more buses running after that but I didn't ask.
As is customary in Trinidad there is always someone around the street corner asking if you needed a taxi - not just in general, but specifically "for tomorrow to Havana Viñales Santa Clara Cienfuegos" (or whatever order it happened to be). Was he going to take me to all those places in one go? How they can predict my future travel plans AND my inability to get my bus ticket I don't know, but it was funny to start asking them exactly the same question back and seeing their reaction (one guy seemed quite annoyed). Ah, they're only trying to make a living afterall, but that doesn't give you the right to piss off every passing tourist.
So I was offered a taxi to Playa Ancón when I arrived at the "bus stop". I duly ignored their offers but it turned out I needed them to get to the beach - the bus was jam packed. About 9 of us shared a ride on this 10-seater antique, each paying $2 (one-way, so to get back you would have to pay another $2 whether by bus or taxi). These taxi drivers must make a killing with these rides, and I doubt they declare these earnings to the tax officials. He already made $18 from that one trip, almost the entire month's wages for the average Cuban working for the government. The long distance journeys are even more lucrative.
Ancón beach is alright. White sand, blue green water, sunshine and hot weather - exactly what it says on the tin. Each deck chair is $2 and someone comes over at some point to collect it.
A few anoyanaces though:
1. Unless you are staying at one of the beach-front resorts, there are no public facilities to get changed and showered. The resorts hire a someone to guard the entrances so non guests aren't allowed it, not even to use their toilets. Stingy bastards. So yeah make sure you are changed and ready to go before you get there (or find a tree).
2. The water isn't completely clear and there is seaweed floating around and on the seabed. I preferred Langkawi.
3. There is a toilet by the restaurant but it was a portaloo and it was like an oven inside, so you can imagine what it smelt like. There is no toilet seat either so I have no idea what ladies do, or if one needed a dump. (In fact most toilets I've seen in Cuba don't have toilet seats - are they too expensive to make or import!?)
4. A couple of locals were walking up and down the beach touting really bad Cuban pizzas for $3. But they normally cost only equiv $0.4, a staggering 7.5 times less! I was not impressed, but hey, there's fuck all else to eat so it's a smart captive business.
The bus was rammed again on the way back but luckily the driver promised to come back for us in 40 minutes. A Spanish couple tried to negotiate a taxi down from $2 each to $1, but that didn't work.
I had a good offer for dinner that evening, at El Diamente (Vincente Suyama #26, or Calle Encarnación on Gogglemaps). Everything on the menu, apart from lobster, was $7.50, which included a salad, rice and fried plantain as standard. They even threw in bread and fried croquettes on the house. It was a really satisfying meal.
On the second day I got up at 5.30am to hunt for sunrise shots. Trinidad is actually a beautiful town when there are no tourists or touts around!
I would have spent the rest of the morning wandering around their top museums (Museo Histórico Municipal and Museo Romántico) if they hadn't either been closed for the day for fumigation or permanently for restoration, respectively. The Galería de Arte on the south-western corner of Plaza Mayor was free and was fantastic though. I also walked up the hill to the local radio tower (north-eastern side of town) which was a nice (albeit really hot) half hour hike. I only had 5kg on my back but still struggled a little in the heat. Venezuela is going to be interesting.
For lunch I met up with Kaniko and her Korean roommate at restaurant Mimi (corner of Antonio Maceo and Colón). The lamb I had was great by Cuban standards, the portion was generous and price was reasonable. I went back again for dinner later that evening. The three of us exchanged lots of intel about the places we've each been to. It's always nice meeting other travellers :)
Trinidad has a daily routine - torrential downpour at around 4pm, but which only lasts for 30-40 minutes. It's not a problem to find somewhere for shelter, but what it does mean is that little rivers start flowing through the cobbled streets. Rivers full of horse shit and piss. Just saying.
If you don't fancy spending your evenings catching up with the world on WhatsApp, head to La Canchánchara, Casa de la Musicá and Bar Yesterday. All are very good and the first two have excellent live Cuban music and optional dancing. Bar Yesterday has live English music, including the classics such as The Beatles (obviously). Drinks
start from $2-3. Tipping the musicians is also a common practice.
Cubanm band just droped in at La Canchánchara
Tourists watching sunset on the steps of Casa de la Musicá
Casa de la Musicá livened up fairly soon after dark
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