Sunday, 28 April 2013

How to get to the Falklands, South Georgia and Antarctica

The Falkland Islands is one of several starting points to sail to Antarctica. I was fortunate enough to be part of a documentary filming group so we had already arranged a privately charter boat, although cruises to the Deep South are also possible. That said, the Falklands is a very interesting place to visit on its own, with an abundance of wildlife and history to keep you busy for at least a week.

Best time to go to the Falklands? During the summer months October to March.

To get to the Falklands from the UK, there are two major routes:

1. Fly with the Royal Air Force direct from Brize Norton, Oxfordshire, with a 2-hour stopover at the Ascension Island for refuelling - flight time with stopover roughly 26 hours

2. Fly commercially to Santiago, Chile and take a LAN connection - flight time with stopover roughly 33 hours

So either way you're looking at a lengthy journey and return prices just over £2,000 (as of Feb 2013). 
For me the idea of flying with the RAF was just too cool to pass. Also the flight to Santiago wasn't direct either, meaning I would have needed to stop over twice if I took the commercial route. It was an easy choice.

The Falkland Islands Tourist Board website has all the information you need to book a flight to the Falklands. Brize Norton-Falklands flights are booked through FIC Travel, however once you've made a reservation make sure you keep checking the status, as for some reason issuing tickets and finalising payment can take weeks if not months. Our tickets were finally issued about 3 weeks before travel, which was frustrating when we reserved the seats and paid for the boat charter months in advance.

The RAF website publishes flight information only about 2 days in advance, so make sure you check and plan accordingly.

Brize Norton

Brize Norton is a RAF airbase near Carterton, a small town 17 miles west of Oxford city. It is just off the A40 so easily accessible by car. Alternatively take the bus S1 (towards Carterton) across from Oxford train station, and let the driver know you want to get off at BN. The ride will take an hour and cost you £4. A taxi from the train station will set you back £35, but takes half the time.

I arrived at Brize Norton without too much trouble, apart from almost being refused boarding the bus at Oxford train station - apparently it was too full even though you could have squeezed at least another 20 people on if you were in London. Then just before I got off, I stood up to put my backpack on, and was told off for standing up when the bus was still moving. Guess I wasn't in London anymore and safety actually mattered. I didn't really know what to expect on this expedition, even though there was no training required, nor was I that mentally prepared. In any case I wanted to make sure I started this trip of a lifetime full of positive energy. I thanked the driver and she was impressed when she asked me where I was going and what I was doing.

The RAF air base is basic and slightly run down, but comfortable enough and in fact quite different from normal airports. Entry was heavily guarded and restricted, though once you have shown your passport and flight ticket, and had your mugshot taken, you are issued with a visitor pass to the terminal building.



Once you were at the terminal the atmosphere relaxes a little. The terminal has a shop, a bar, a few TVs and a PS3 tha no one uses. Surprisingly unlike those in the average airport, the shop (SPAR) wasn't super inflated at all. I bought lots of snacks - sweets, cakes, crisps, wasabi nuts...just to make sure I survive being strapped in on an RAF flight for 27 hours.

Check-in was a straight forward process. There is 27kg restriction on the holdall and 9kg on the hand luggage. Again contrary to my expectations and experiences at a commercial airport, the RAF enforced the 9kg limit on my hand luggage but didn't mind so much when my holdall exceeded 27kg. As it turned out the flight was half empty which was why they weren't too bothered.




The best bit was seeing 'Royal Air Force' written on the body of all the shiny white planes en route to boarding our flight, amongst all the other military aircrafts.

There were only a few dozen people on board the 200 capacity Airbus, so I got 2 seats by the window by myself. I came here expecting the worst - crammed, hungry and nothing to do for 24 hours whilst strapped in on a military aircraft with a parachute on my back. This was a good start, but what was even better was when they started handing out iPads because there were no screens in front of each seat. The food was sub-standard, but I was fed twice on the first leg to Ascension, and twice on the second leg to the Falklands. Then again, it wasn't much worse than the average commercial airline food. When I got up to walk around I also noticed a couple of beds at the back of the plane. It would have been great to sleep on those but I think they were reserved for the very sick or injured.

Nine hours after taking off from Brize Norton I arrived at Ascension Island somewhat sleep deprived, but felt much better as soon as I got off. It was 20°C, which was very hot given I was dressed for 5°C back in the UK. There were palm trees at the air base, and the wind was more of a comforting breeze than a bone-cutting chill.




The Ascension Island is another British Overseas Territory. A volcanic island situated in the middle of the Atlantic, about halfway between Africa and South America and just south of the equator (hence the tropical climate), it also has an RAF military base. I only spent 2 hours there confined to the waiting area of the airbase, which has a coffee kiosk and a small duty free shop. The organiser of the Antarctica expedition, Stewart, and his cameraman Simon actually came back here for 4 days after Antarctica to film the rich and unique wildlife. I was offered to join months ago, but I turned it down due to time and cost. Part of me regretted that decision now.

Finally after another 8 hours of flying down the Atlantic, I arrived at the Mount Pleasant airbase in the Falklands. And this is where my trip of a lifetime began...


Sunday, 21 April 2013

Packing list for Antarctica, The Falklands and South Georgia

I started shopping for all the things I needed to pack only about a month prior to departure, much later than my fellow travellers, which in hindsight was a little bit of a rush, but hey, I got most of the items in the Christmas/January sale. If you can get organised quickly it's actually too bad.
 
I've categorised the list below, however, do bear in mind that:
  • I sailed on a privately chartered boat from the Falklands, lived, ate, slept (and poo'ed) on the boat for the entirety of the journey, only landing in South Georgia and the Peninsula to see the wildlife during the day;
  • went as far as Port Lockroy in the Antarctic Peninsula (at around 65°S, just north of the Antarctic Circle), at the end of the Southern polar summer, so temperatures without wind chill never dropped below -2°C during daytime.

Where sensible, I've also included cost as of Jan/Feb 2013.

This list worked for me but is definitely not exhaustive - feel free to leave a comment if you think there are other essential items too.


Prior to departure
  • Travel insurance a must - to cover all 3 locations. If anything went wrong the cost of repatriation would be phenomenal. Falklands immigration requires sufficient cover before you are allowed to enter
  • Brize Norton / Falklands return flights - £2,244
  • Cash - there are no ATMs in the Falklands, South Georgia (Grytviken), and definitely not in Antarctica (Port Lockroy or any of the bases). The main currency used in these places is British Pound Sterling (£). Falklands has a Standard Chartered bank but will charge you 4.5% fee for cash withdrawal. I had cash for Falklands airport transfer (£20 each way), South Georgia landing (£165), internet cards in the Falklands (£5 for 50 minutes), Volunteer Point day trip (£100-120), petty cash (£400) for souvenirs, postcards, meals and postcards. In total I took around £700 cash
  • Visa / Mastercard
  • Falklands accommodation - B&B's and hotels are around £70-120 per night
  • An understanding of the human impact on Antarctica, and making sure any negative impacts are minimised - priceless



Note that the Falklands have their own Pound Sterling, which is at a 1:1 rate with the GBP. Falklands money is not accepted in the UK, so make sure you use it or exchange it before you leave.
 
Clothing - warning: these will be covered in penguin/seal shit
  • Knee length fully waterproof wellies, comfortable enough for mini-hikes
  • Waterproof and windproof trousers, or ski pants
  • Thermal base layers (body) - I didn't actually need thermal long-johns, as the ski trousers proved to be sufficiently waterproof and windproof to keep my legs warm
  • Silk liner gloves
  • Warm outer gloves
  • Thermal or ski socks
  • Mid-layer - e.g. fleeces, hoodies
  • Waterproof and windproof jackets, with a hood if possible
  • Warm hat(s) - I had a close fit beanie hat and a trapper hat to cover the ears
  • Comfortable footwear whilst on board
  • Swimwear - YES swimming in the Antarctic water is a once in a life time event not many people can claim! Well, I certainly can't say I've done it myself, but I did bathe in a hole of geothermal spring at Deception Island
  • Balaclava - some people had it but I thought it was unnecessary

Medication 
  • Sunscreen - I only had SPF 20 but as a Yellow Asian it was OK; otherwise SPF 50 recommended
  • Scopoderm patches hyoscine 1mg - each lasts for 72 hours. Essential for the rough seas, but has unpleasant side effects including blurred vision, dry bitter mouth and drowsiness - £3 per patch
  • Stugeron travel sickness tablets - make sure this is taken prior to sailing
  • Travel sickness wrist band
  • Immodium
  • Antihistamines
  • Standard first aid kit (painkillers, plasters, bandages, etc)

Electronic and camera
  • Laptop with photo processing software - just to make those endless hours crossing the open sea more productive
  • Portable hard drive to back up photos
  • Filters and hoods - to reduce all the glare from the Sun, the sea and the ice/snow (there's lots of it)
  • Tripod, shutter release and head torch, especially for night time photography under almost perfect conditions (no light pollution or air pollution)
  • Spare battery and memory cards
  • Rain cover for the camera
  • Dry bag(s) - to protect the camera and lenses from condensation forming from going from the extreme cold to warmth
  • Silica gel - as above
  • GPS tracking - my friend Simon had one mounted to his camera, records location info for each photo taken
  • Underwater camera - Simon had this and proved to be very useful
  • Camcorder - Simon had this and was great for filming (much steadier than the penguins and icebergs flipping that I took)
  • Satellite phone with pre-paid card if you really want to be contactable in the wilderness. I found the boat's email system sufficient, but my fellow traveller Achut brought a GPS tracking device which uploaded our location to a website via satellite, and allowed in/out messages, which was really nice. 

Accessories

  • Binoculars - absolutely must for the spotting cool icebergs, glaciers and the wildlife (whales, albatrosses, penguins, birds...)
  • Sunglasses
  • Backpack and rain cover
  • Knee support for hikes
  • Diary or notebook - there are plenty of incredible sights and memories to remember

Personal Hygiene
  • Deodorant - I wished I took some, as I ended up not showering for 6 days, twice
  • Wet wipes
  • Lip balm with sun protection
  • Moisturisers

Entertainment / nice to have's
  • Music, books and films (preloaded on my tablet)
  • Travel scrabble (or any other board game)
  • Cards
  • Shackleton's whiskey - my fellow traveller Achut ordered this and it was fantastic! Any form of alcohol was good, though the boat provided plenty of beer and wine



What I bought in the Falklands
  • Falklands has a very well stocked supermarket called the West Store, although dry foods are sometimes out of date. Stock mostly comes from the Waitrose supermarket in the UK. This is where I stocked up on comfort foods like digestive biscuits, Cadbury's chocolate fingers and sweets
  • 1TB portable hard drive from the electrical store
  • Fresh food and veg, though less abundant and more expensive

What I did NOT need to take
  • Washing powder - provided on board, not that we had much chance to wash clothes anyway
  • Toilet paper
  • Bedding (sleeping bag, pillow etc) - all provided
  • Walking sticks - needed to ward off over-excited seals, provided on board
  • Any food or drink, other than non-perishable comfort food such as biscuits and chocolate

Sunday, 7 April 2013

Spectacular sight - A flipping iceberg

A few people have asked me, if there was one top highlight of the Antarctica trip, what would it be? Now, I'd been making a note of all the highlights throughout the trip, and I came to a list of about 20 by the end (this warrants a separate blogpost). The most comical scene had to go to the gentoo penguin that was left behind on an iceberg after all his mates jumped into the sea (see my previous video blog), but the most spectacular?

Here it is.

We had spent most of the third day in the Antarctic Peninsula under deck, sheltering from the horrendous snow and wind chill that had cut through my bones in the morning. Our captain Jerome promised there would be better weather on the fourth day.

Lo and behold, as if Jerome had a remote control for the weather, we were treated with a sunny balmy day on Day 4, with temperature rising to 5°C at its highest. We were sailing around the Peninsula in search for wildlife, and by the afternoon we found ourselves in a bay full of pack ice and icebergs. The water was very still and calm, and we were busy above deck taking shots of the landscape, whilst also hoping to spot some seals and whales.

Then, without any warning, Simon shouted "that iceberg is breaking!" and we could immediately hear a loud rumbling noise as our attention turned to the starboard side of the Fleece.

My camera was already ready to shoot and I managed to take as many continuous shots as my memory card could handle. I was a bit gutted I was't in video mode - I'd seen parts of a glacier breaking off before, but it is so abrupt and quick I've never managed to film the whole sequence. I switched to video mode anyway, ready for the big wave caused by the ice that collapsed into the calm and still water.



But the wave didn't come.


What actually followed was completely unexpected, and far more spectacular, so you have to see it for yourself (full screen strongly recommended).


The calving of the iceberg must have changed its centre of gravity so much that the re-balance rotated and flipped it upside down. This process actually happens all the time, from the moment an iceberg is born after breaking away from an ice shelf or glacier. Over many years the iceberg would continue to melt and break up, flipping and rotating in the process. It's actually quite a common occurrence.

But what made this so special was the fact that even Jerome, who has been sailing in the Southern Ocean and the Antarctic Peninsula for 40 years, told us this was only the third time in his life he'd seen something like this.

Incredible.


Simon actually recorded this whole sequence, from the collapse to the flip, on his camcorder on a tripod. I will update with a link once he has posted his video which will be better quality and less shaky.